Yes Virginia, there really is a Transylvania

Transylvania was never on my travel radar, but it was for my traveling companion. When I think of vampires, werewolves and other creatures of the night, Transylvania comes to mind as their European habitation—on the fringe of civilization, it is romantically remote, medieval and mysterious. Its not that I was particularly averse to visiting Transylvania, but it would just never have occurred to me to seek it out—since it seems more a realm of myth than reality.

When we flew into Bucharest, in the summer of 2004, there were still pervasive remnants of communism and Russian influence. Few people spoke English, wild dogs roamed the back alleys and the city seemed oddly separated from the prosperity of most other European capitals. There were shoots of new growth in the downtown area—the polished edifices of a new hotel or office complex here and there—but these were peppered among the generally dilapidated Baroque and Neoclassical facades that reflected a more prosperous past. Transportation from the airport was offered by our hotel, which turned out to be in a battered old sedan which could only be entered from the door that still worked. The trip from the airport was a long one, and along the dark avenues remnants of blocky abandoned buildings hovered threateningly by way of introduction. Our own hotel was a once-elegant establishment that had seen better days. Upon check-in, the hotel staff were somewhat brusque, perhaps because we not only spoke no Romanian, but no Russian either.  The lobby was grand by 19^th century standards, but the lift was ancient and our room was rather Spartan. It had a small balcony, and the French doors could be opened to allow fresh air in, but the lights flickered and the mattresses had some course hair within them that required covering with a heavy wool blanket in order not to cause incessant itching the whole night through. 

 

We could hear the dogs (or maybe werewolves) howling down the alley. However, Bucharest is not in Transylvania (so perhaps not). In 2004, Bucharest struck me as an interesting and chaotic city—rather than a charming one. 

 

Any former grace had faded with neglect and was compromised by the utilitarian modernizations of 20^th century Soviet influence.

After a few days in Bucharest, we traveled on to Pitesti for a couple of nights, then boarded a train going almost the opposite direction of Sibiu (our actual destination). The Romanian train system was rudimentary at that time. Our only option by train was to travel southwest a few hours, camp out in the tiny dusty train station until mid-afternoon with the stray dogs and then catch a milk run north that eventually arrived near the end of the day in Sibiu (although we later discovered that a ‘maxi-taxi’ would have taken us directly from Pitesti to Sibiu in a couple of hours—but who knew?—the travel agents spoke no English). Things improved immediately on arrival in Sibiu. 

We stayed in the largest most elegant hotel for a very modest price, in posh—if old—rooms, but the service was terrific, and I think the best pizza I’ve ever eaten was a ‘Napoli’ (capers, anchovies, tomato sauce and cheese) that we ate in Sibiu’s main square the evening we arrived. 

The old city center is endlessly walkable and lined with outdoor cafes in the summer months. While also somewhat dilapidated, Sibiu is altogether charming! We were now in Transylvania.

Transylvania is a historical region, rather than a country. Its bordered on the south and east sides by the beautiful Carpathian Mountains, and is a region where German is more commonly the second language. This helped us, as I can converse in German, when necessary. But there was little need, most people spoke some English. Sibiu was once the capital of the Principality of Transylvania, and has medieval roots as a former trading center. German speaking settlers in great numbers migrated to Sibiu during the middle ages for opportunity. Although most returned to their former lands after the Austro-Hungarian Empire was dissolved, a small population of people with German roots still live in the area.

Sibiu is ringed by a medieval city wall enclosing structures of the old city, many roofed with dormers—like eyes—watching the passage of time.

 

But we were not yet in the heart of mythic Transylvania—the heart is certainly Count Dracula’s lair near Brasov—nestled in the hillside at the foot of the Carpathians.

Bran Castle is ‘touted’ as Dracula’s castle, but in fact Count Vlad (Vlad Ţepeş, ‘Vlad the Impaler,’ 1448–1476) probably only passed through the area—by all historic accounts (never mind that the Poenari Castle is the castle actually built by Count Vlad).

Dracula needs a castle, and what are facts when there is such a rich myth to mine? Bram Stoker’s vampire has propelled the castle to fame and certainly brought in its share of tourist dollars. 

The legend gained popularity through film, beginning with the 1922 classic, Nosferatu. Dracula aficionados know well the classic portrayals of Count Dracula by Max Schreck, Béla Lugosi, Christopher Lee, Frank Langella, Klaus Kinski, and Gary Oldman, among countless others. The Dracula legend has spawned a constant stream of subsequent vampire film derivatives, a few of the more interesting being The Hunger, Interview with a Vampire, the Twilight series, and most recently Only Lovers left Alive. Vampire legends play on man's darkest fears surrounding death and premature burial—where the undead rise again and find themselves suspended between actual life and final death. What could be a better setting than Transylvania for these dreaded scenarios to be played out?

Bran Castle's medieval history provides the perfect backdrop for Dracula's dark story and beckons all Goths of the world to Transylvania (one being my traveling companion). So during my stay in Sibiu I found myself in a maxi-taxi headed for Brasov, and then further by bus to Bran Castle.

To its credit, the castle is in good repair, is sparsely but beautifully furnished, and does not sell itself on the Dracula myth.

But the little town that surrounds it is happy to provide any of the vampire trappings you might desire (we bought a bottle of Vampire wine, some T-shirts and pamphlets with historic details about Count Vlad). However, one thing the castle didn’t offer—which would have been fabulous—was a tour through the castle and grounds after dark. 

We actually visited on a beautiful warm summer day with blue skies and chirping birds (but Photoshop makes it much easier to imagine what the castle might look like around midnight in the gleam of a full moon).

 

Yes Virginia, there really is a Transylvania…and its well worth a visit.